I set out to create a skull lamppost for Halloween but it morphed into a more permanent DIY Lamppost you can Change with the Seasons and Holidays.
In this tutorial I will show you how to make it and how I decorated it for Halloween. I haven’t gotten anything done, yet, for Thanksgiving and Christmas and beyond.
As I was getting ready to start on this project, I thought to myself, ‘it would be really cool if I could figure out a way to make it changeable with the holidays and seasons’. It later occurred to me as I was taking the broom handle out for gluing, what if we could make the lamppost like the broom top and twist it on the handle? That way we could put stuff on and off the pole! I just needed the top of the broom portion attached to the bottom of the lamp somehow? My husband had recently broke a broom and I knew there was one slated for the trash. So I said, “honey, do you think there is a way we can?” and the changeable lamppost plan was born.
It worked (I love when I get to say that) and we created a season changeable lamppost.
(Short YouTube video tutorial here on my Lovensthelife Channel.)
Ok…..Let’s Create!
Supplies List
- Charger plate or other large plate – color not important [Dollar Tree]
- Bowl – ideally plastic in similar shape – color not important [Dollar Tree]
- 4 – 4×6 frames – with flat faces – color not important [Dollar Tree]
- 2 dinner placemats – design/color not important [Dollar Tree]
- Piece of wood underlayment or other thin wood – cut to 6 x 7-1/4 inches
- Broom or mop handle [Dollar Tree]
- Broom or mop top – if wooden you will need a hole attachment for the drill. If plastic a hand saw may work best.
- Bead or cap for the finial
- 4 plastic skulls to decorate it for Halloween [Dollar Tree]
- E6000 glue
- Fine tip super glue – I used Loctite
- Styrofoam the circumference of the broom handle – color or type not important
- Drill and large drill bit nearest the circumference of your broom handle.
- Gorilla tape
- Razor knife
- Scissors
- Paper
- Pen
- Sharpie
- Clamps
- Spray paint
- Battery operated light
Instructions
The Pole and Base
Why do the stickers from Dollar Tree stick SO good!? On a surface such as the broom handle I have found rubbing oil on it and then wiping it with a paper towel is like removal magic. I have had success with both Olive and Vegetable oil.
Since right before project time I changed it up (not the first time), I solicited my husband’s help. I explained I wanted to be able to remove the skulls so I could use the lamppost for other seasons and could we somehow fasten the female end of a broom to the lantern? He grabbed the old broom top that had been broken recently and said he had an idea. He got to work and with a hole drill attachment he cut out around the female threads on the broom. It worked better than I expected. It was circular already and small enough that it wouldn’t be an eyesore on the bottom of the lantern either. Most importantly, it worked and threaded beautifully onto the Dollar Tree broom handle.
I looked at the top to a Dollar Tree broom and I think there is a way to do something similar but using possibly a hand saw as they are usually plastic and not wooden. If it ends up being an eyesore you could put a piece of cardboard roll (like saran wrap comes on) up over it and secure to hide it.
Next we removed the plastic hanger cap off the top of the broom handle exposing the hollow end. Then my husband cut out a piece of foam to fit inside the hollow end of the broom and placed it inside. The goal here was to create more surface area for gluing. I think a wine cork would work for this as well but didn’t get a chance to try it.
Using the remnants of the handle filler as a template my husband drilled a hole in the plastic bowl. The largest drill bit we had wasn’t big enough to only drill one hole. He drilled multiples together to make the size needed. Then we placed it upside down onto the end of the broom.
Next we flipped the charger plate upside down to create the base of the base. We glued the foam filled end of the broom to the center of it using e6000 glue. My husband was so patient standing there holding it. He was a huge help in this project!
Once that was able to stand mostly on its own we glued the upside down bowl down to the charger plate using e6000 glue.
The Lantern Panels
While the base and pole were drying I got to work on the lantern panels. I took everything from out of the four frames leaving only the empty frames. Then I got to work on getting them glued together.
BLUNDER – It never occurred to me there was a right/wrong way to glue the frames together to make it look most like a lantern. Well I learned the hard way. I will save you $4 for new frames and lots of time and show you the right/wrong way to glue them.
Do NOT glue the frames in a staggered formation to make your rectangle or you end up with two on one side and one on the other of each panel of the lantern. Trust me it looks weird. DO glue the same on both sides with opposing ends the same. That way two sides will have two on each side and the other two sides will have one on each side. Hopefully the pics below clear the mud.
Ok, once you have planned that out. Start gluing them together with the e6000 glue until you have a rectangle. I secured them with clamps while they dried.
BLUNDER 2 – At this point I should have glued glass into one of the doubled up sides. If you can’t stand the suspense you can skip ahead and see why here.
Next you need a base for your lantern panels. We had some thin underlayment from another project so my husband cut me out a rectangle to fit at 6 x 7-1/4 inches. See I told you he was a ton of help on this project.
Once the glue on the frames had set up I glued the piece of underlayment to one end of the frame panels with the e6000 glue and clamped it down. Then I glued the female portion of the broom thread onto the center and clamped it.
The Canopy and Finial
This was the most time consuming portion. I considered cardboard or foam board which might have been easier to work with. However, I really wanted a material that could handle the humidity and temperature changes and dinner placemats met that requirement. They are however more pliable than cardboard or foamboard so in my opinion not as easy to work with.
Templates
First off I made templates out of paper for all the pieces that would need to be cut out of the placemat. It is a good thing because I got the sides wrong at least twice. The measurements that I used follow but they will be different if you are unable to find the exact same frames.
The first template was the rectangle base for the canopy. I traced around the outside edge of the lantern panels onto a piece of paper. With these particular frames my rectangle was 6 x 7-1/4 inches. I wanted the base of the canopy to overlap just slightly so I cut my rectangle template a half of an inch larger on each side.
- Rectangle template measuring 7×8-1/4 inches
- I cut 3 templates at this size (one for the rectangle and two to make the triangle canopy pieces).
After deciding how tall you want your peak pieces (I did 6 inches) you will find the middle of both your long and short side of the rectangle so in my case 3.5 inches on the short side and 4-1/8 inches on the long side. Using a rectangle template and the short side measurement of 3.5 inches, draw a line dissecting your rectangle in the middle. Then on that center line, mark up 6 inches (the height you want your pieces) and draw your triangle from the bottom corners to the 6 inch point. Repeat for the long side using the 4-1/8 inch measurement. Now you can cut out your triangle templates.
- 1 short side triangle template
- 1 long side triangle template
Cutting the Canopy Pieces
Using your templates draw your shapes onto your mat with a pen or marker. If you are using the exact measurements that I did, you will be able to cut out a rectangle and two triangles on one mat. Then on the second mat, 1 more of each triangle and the finial base (explained below). You should have the following drawn out:
- 1 large rectangle for the base measuring 7×8-1/4 inches
- 2 short side triangles
- 2 long side triangles
Once I had all of the shapes drawn onto the mats I then used a razor knife and ruler to cut them out.
Next I made some folds and clamped it all together the way I wanted it to make sure it was going to go together well. I made the following folds in the triangles using a ruler and then folding over the edge of it.
- 1/4 inch along the bottom of all four of the triangles – folded out
- 3/4 inch on the top of the long side triangles – folded in
- 1/2 inch on the top of the short side triangles – folded in
The four triangle canopy pieces were held into shape using gorilla tape. My intention was to just use glue but my hubby suggested this and it ended up being way easier. I meant to then go over the seams with glue as well but I completely forgot until after I had already painted. We get to test the strength of the gorilla tape I guess.
Next I removed the clamps and the rectangular base and taped the four triangles together making sure to fully cover the seams.
Then I glued the canopy top to the placemat base with e6000 glue.
Putting it all Together
Once that had cured I glued the canopy top I had just created to the frame panels. I clamped it but in hindsight I would reach deep for some patience and hold it instead. The clamps dented the placemats which is a small enough imperfection that I didn’t start again.
For the finial I cut a small piece of mat 1 x 1-1/2 inch that covered the top folds (with a little excess) and then glued my knob to it. I then glued those both to the top of the canopy.
Once it had all dried, I spray painted the pole, base section, and the lantern section all black.
The Glass
BLUNDER 2 – I nearly cried when I discovered this one. This far into a project with no time to redo is a disheartening time to discover any error. Before painting I should have glued glass into one of the doubled up sides and then taped it off while painting. I actually considered gluing the glass before painting but didn’t want the extra hassle of taping it all off on both sides. However, I should have for at least one panel. My error resulted in not being able to get the glass into the double frame area. So instead of being able to glue it flush to the outside I had to glue it inside frame two. See photo as I think it explains it best.
Using a fine tipped super glue (I used Loctite) I secured glass panels into 3 of the 4 sides. The fourth side is left without glass so you can add and remove your light.
***You will have taken my warning and done one before painting and only have two to do here.***
The Accents
I will update as I create other seasonal accents but I ran out of time to get them all done. For Halloween I chose skulls as it seems to be the theme this year with the wreaths and the other outdoor projects I created.
For the Halloween lamppost decor, I took 4 plastic skulls and cut slits with a razor blade. Then they easily just slide onto the pole.
The first three I did as above in varying areas to make them random on the pole.
For the top one I cut off the flaps so they would not stick up.
When Halloween is over I can slide the skulls off the pole and pack them away with the other Halloween decor.
Then it can be redecorated for the next holiday.
The final steps to getting it ready to display was twisting the lantern to the pole and adding a battery light.
Done.
I think it fits in nicely with my other outside projects I created to Inexpensively Creepify our porch.
Your Turn to Create
I would love to hear if you gain inspiration from this post and make your very own DIY Lamppost you can Change with the Seasons and Holidays
